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Willa Cather Red Cloud Nebraska Tour

08.22.2019 by Tana Henry //

Willa Cather is an author who grew up in South Central Nebraska, not far from where I live. When I moved to Nebraska, I heard a lot about her, and about her novels and short stories. I’d never read her books before, but started reading them, and really fell in love with her writing. I’ve now read several, and intend to keep reading them.

Willa Cather Foundation
Outside of the Willa Cather Foundation and Museum.

Red Cloud, Nebraska features the Willa Cather Foundation, several tours, and events year-round. I’ve been meaning to make the drive over to Red Cloud and visit for several years, but finally found the time to visit this summer. Mike and I participated in the 7-building tour. They also have a 3-building tour, a self-guided tour, and a country tour. I would like to do the country tour at some point, as well.

Cather House
Inside Willa Cather’s childhood home.

The 7-building tour kicks off with visiting Willa Cather’s childhood home. It includes period furnishings, including many of the Cather family’s own belongings, which were kept and curated by her sister. The home and the furnishings reminded me very much of visiting DeSmet, South Dakota and taking the tour of Laura Ingalls Wilder’s childhood homes.

Cather home
Outside of Willa Cather’s childhood home in Red Cloud, Nebraska.

The next stop on the tour is the Burlington Depot, which is the building that people would come into and out of Red Cloud through when traveling by train. The building is very well-preserved and includes lots of historical information about the area, and interesting artifacts. Our tour guide also told us that the building had been moved across the railroad tracks as the railroad expanded, in order to preserve the building and its history.

Burlington Depot
The Burlington Depot.

 

Signal lantern
A train signal lantern at the Burlington Depot.

 

The Burlington Depot
The Burlington Depot.

Our next stop on the tour was the Juliana Falconieri Catholic Church. This place is tiny, and was part of the inspiration for several of Cather’s books.

St. Juliana Falconieri Catholic Church
St. Juliana Falconieri Catholic Church alter.

We also visited the Miner House, which was known as the Harling House in My Antonia. Cather and her family were friends with the Miners and spent a lot of time together, during Cather’s childhood. Cather maintained her relationship with some of the Miners throughout her life. And the Miners were prototypes for characters in that novel.

Miner House
The Miner House.

This house was beautiful, and had the most beautiful Limoges dishes on the table. They are even dishes that were owned and used by the Miner family.

Miner House Limoges dishes
The Limoges dishes at the Miner House.

Our next stop was the Grace Episcopal Church, which was the Cather family church beginning in 1922. It features beautiful painted glass (not stained glass) windows, including some donated by the Cather Family.

Grace Episcopal Church
Painted Glass Windows at Grace Episcopal Church.

We visited in the afternoon and thought that the light streaming in just made the windows gorgeous. Then we realized that all of the windows, on all sides of the building were equally bright. The tour guide mentioned that they were probably painted with radium paint, and that they were just as bright at midnight as they were in the middle of the afternoon.

Grace Episcopal Church
Painted Glass Windows at Grace Episcopal Church.

Hearing about the radium paint reminded me of the book The Radium Girls by Kate Moore. That book is the story of several young women who work in a plant painting dials with radium paint and are poisoned by the radiation, and later have significant adverse health effects.

Grace Episcopal Church
Painted Glass Windows at Grace Episcopal Church.

Our last stop before returning to and touring the Opera House, was the Farmers and Merchants Bank, previously known as the Garber Bank. The Garbers were friends of Willa Cather’s, and were used to develop characters in A Lost Lady. The bank itself is used in a couple of other short stories.

Farmers and Merchants Bank
Outside of the Farmers and Merchants Bank.

 

Inside Farmers and Merchants Bank
Inside the Farmers and Merchants Bank.

Our final stop was back at the Red Cloud Opera House. The opera house stage area is upstairs, and is a beautiful facility. It was somewhat dark though, so not conducive to picture-taking. The Opera House building also houses the museum and a bookstore. I had to take home a couple of books from the bookstore, since they have a really cool stamp in them. And we had to take a selfie with Willa herself!

Cather Museum
Mike and me inside the Cather Museum.

All in all, we had a really good trip to Red Cloud. It was educational and entertaining. I recommend making the trip. And I’d like to go back at some point and do the Country Tour.

Have you been to Red Cloud?

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Categories // Roadside Locations Tags // Burlington Depot, Cather Childhood Home, Cather Foundation, Cather Museum, Farmers and Merchants Bank, Grace Episcopal Church, Juliana Falconieri Catholic Church, Miner House, Nebraska, Red Cloud, Red Cloud Opera House, Willa Cather

Museum of Nebraska Art

03.21.2017 by Tana Henry //

In 2017, I’m making more of an effort to make life feel more like travel, even if I’m staying put. By this I mean that my goal is to check out some of the museums and attractions right in my own backyard during those months when travel to far-flung destinations isn’t realistic. So, in February, Mike and I checked out the Museum of Nebraska Art (MONA) located in Kearney, Nebraska. I’ve driven past the building hundreds of times, but this was our first trip.

Museum of Nebraska Art
Beethoven Sonata by Grant Reynard.

The museum is FREE! I couldn’t believe it when I looked it up on the website. It’s open Tuesday-Saturday 11am-5pm, and 1pm-5pm on Sunday.

The exhibitions change, so it’s easy to revisit the museum and have entirely different experiences each time.When we visited, my favorite exhibition was the collection of Grant Reynard prints. In college I had several friends who were art majors, and I most enjoyed watching them ‘do homework’ when they were working on their woodcuts for the printmaking class. This exhibition reminded me of that experience, but of course to a much higher level of expertise. And of course, being a musician made me appreciate the prints of musicians and conductors even more.

Museum of Nebraska Art
Cornucopia by Nancy Friedemann-Sanchez.
India ink on Tyvek, collage.

I also really enjoyed the Mujeres exhibition, and its use of different materials including things like paper and Tyvek. It was simply beautiful and inventive.

 

Have you visited the Museum of Nebraska Art? What did you think?

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Categories // Roadside Locations Tags // Beethoven Sonata, Cornucopia, Grant Reynard, Kearney, MONA, Mujeres, Museum of Nebraska Art, Nancy Friedemann-Sanchez, Nebraska

Northern Michigan and Upper Peninsula (Part 2)

11.08.2016 by Tana Henry //

Over the summer, Mike and I went to Northern Michigan, specifically the Upper Peninsula. He drove with a group from Heartland Scuba to go wreck diving in the Straits of Mackinac. I decided that I wanted to go along since the trip was over my birthday, even though I wasn’t planning on diving. I flew to Michigan and met up with the group, as I didn’t want to ride in a van for two days each way. Also, we had Delta Skymiles to burn, so my flights were essentially free. So, win-win! In Part 1 on my trip to Michigan, I talked about Pellston, Mackinaw City, the Mackinac Bridge, St. Ignace, Mackinac Island, and the wreck diving in the Straits of Mackinac. In Part 2, I’ll talk about Castle Rock, Sault St. Marie, Soo Locks, Whitefish Point, and Tahquamenon Falls.

Castle Rock

Castle RockMike and I also hiked to the top of Castle Rock, which is just north of St. Ignace. It’s a limestone stack rising nearly 200 feet over the surrounding land, that was revealed by the erosion of the surrounding land. It costs $1 if you want to hike to the top, and doesn’t cost anything if you just want to pull into the parking lot to snap a few photos or go into the gift shop. We opted to climb to the top for a bit of exercise. To get to the top, you climb a ton of stairs, so be prepared to be in decent shape. The view from the top is worth the climb, as you can see for quite aways.

View from Castle Rock
We made it to the top!

And at the base of Castle Rock is a statue of Paul Bunyan and his blue ox named Babe. A true roadside attraction at its best!

Bunyan and Babe Castle Rock
Babe and Paul Bunyan at Castle Rock

Soo Locks/Sault St. Marie

Soo Locks
Soo Locks

Sault St. Marie (pronounced Soo St. Marie) is just across the St. Mary’s River from Canada. I was bummed, because I didn’t take my passport and therefore couldn’t drive over the bridge into Canada. 🙁 Maybe next time. I did take the opportunity to go on a boat tour through the Soo Locks that passed into Canadian waters. It was so neat to ride through the locks and learn about how they work. Even better, there was a freighter ‘down-locking’ while we were ‘up-locking.’ So our water level was rising while the freighter’s water level was lowering.

The SaginawWe also went into Canadian waters, so I’m counting that as a trip to Canada. 😉 And we sailed past a freighter called the Saginaw that was in the process of offloading its cargo. The thing was enormous! And it put into better perspective the wrecks that Mike was diving. Interestingly enough, it was also roughly similar in size to the Edmund Fitzgerald, which I was reading about on the trip, and which I learned more about from my trip to Whitefish Point later in the day.

Whitefish Point

Whitefish Point
Whitefish Point

After my trip to Sault St. Marie, I drove over to Whitefish Point. Visiting the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum was highlight of the visit. The museum absolutely did not disappoint. It was tasteful and educational. I had no idea how many shipwrecks there are in the Great Lakes, and was astonished at the number. And reading the accounts of how some of them occurred made me sad for the folks involved, and in some cases incredibly angry. There was one particular boat that caused at least two wrecks, simply because they were unwilling to yield to other boats or to slow during inclement weather. It gave me greater perspective on the wrecks that Mike and the others were diving, and the great care that divers in particular need to take to be respectful of those who lost their lives in those wrecks.

Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum
Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum

The museum also had the bell from the Edmund Fitzgerald. This particular wreck is so well known because of how recently it occurred (1975), and because of the Gordon Lightfoot song (this youtube video shows footage of the ship’s launch, the ship sailing, and of the wreck itself). Adding to the mystique, the cause of the wreck is still not ascertained beyond doubt. I recommend reading Stonehouse’s The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald, as it gives accounts of the various theories and examines them in greater detail.

Edmund Fitzgerald BellThe Edmund Fitzgerald lies in about 530 feet of water about 17 miles from Whitefish Bay. It is illegal to dive (and in fact would require an incredible amount of training and skill to dive it even if one wanted to do so). Submersible vehicles were used to study the wreck in the efforts to determine the cause of the shipwreck, due to the depth and the amount of decompression that would be required to dive it. A “Newtsuit” or atmospheric diving suit was used to retrieve the bell, and to replace the bell with a replica with the names of the crew members inscribed on it. Newtsuits differ from standard diving gear, in that the individual inside the suit is maintained at surface pressure, rather than subject to the increased pressure (or atmospheres) at depth. This means that the individual wearing the Newtsuit doesn’t have the requirement to do decompression stops, like a scuba diver would. The Newtsuit used is also on display in the museum.

Newtsuit
Newtsuit on display in the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum.

Tahquamenon Falls State Park

Tahquemenon Falls
Tahquemenon Falls

After my history lessons at Whitefish Point, I drove over to Tahquamenon Falls State Park. It’s a bit of a drive, but definitely workable to visit both in the same day. Tahquamenon Falls State Park consists of two sets of falls that are viewable from the trails. The lower falls and upper falls are really two separate sections (I drove from the lower falls to the upper falls). I believe there to be a hiking trail between both portions, but I was short on time and didn’t do much hiking. The lower falls section was incredibly busy the day I visited. The upper falls section was less busy, and a much more peaceful walk.

Northern Michigan Part 2

I had a fantastic time in Northern Michigan and the Upper Peninsula. I am hoping to go back next summer when Heartland Scuba takes a group to dive the Straits of Mackinac. It is gorgeous, and I can’t wait to soak up some more beauty and history.

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Categories // Domestic Travel, Roadside Locations Tags // Babe, Canada, Castle Rock, Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum, Heartland Scuba, Heartland Scuba Center, Michigan, Northern Michigan, Paul Bunyan, Sault St. Marie, Soo Locks, St. Ignace, Tahquamenon Falls State Park, Upper Peninsula, Whitefish Point

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My name is Tana, and I am an attorney in South-Central Nebraska. I'm married to a great guy, named Mike, and have a dog named Emmy and a cat named Scout. I read as much as possible, and travel any chance I get. Luggage and Literature chronicles both. I hope you enjoy looking around! Please leave me a comment and tell me what you think.

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